My latest piece for The Great Food Club, celebrating some of the dependable favourites that are easily overlooked when shiny new things come along. https://www.greatfoodclub.co.uk/still-got-it-excellent-nottinghamshire-restaurants-that-have-stood-the-test-of-time/
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I thought I would do a full review of French Living alongside this wider piece and pay homage to their 30 years in Nottingham. There is so much charm to their rustic style; small thick rimmed wine glasses, chalkboard menus and of course many familiar and comforting dishes to choose from. Prices are around £10 for starters and £20-30 for mains with a 2 course fixed menu at £25.
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I’ve grown to love escargots , especially after a few trips to Burgundy. There’s something so comforting in garlic butter and great bread, the latter now coming from the fantastic Tough Mary’s Bakehouse. Main courses are equally nostalgic. I had chosen lamb chops which was a quaint and varied plateful. Artichoke, celeriac mash, field mushroom, greens and a slice of gratin are things you wouldn’t find combined on many plates but here it just seems to work. The lamb itself had both a deep charred flavour and sweetness from the meat, happily still pink in the middle. A classic jus was delicious, salty, rich and a great foil to the rest of the plate, though lacking in wild garlic flavour I had been promised on the menu. Those many accompaniments were all executed well too, particularly the gratin potatoes which were crispy on the outside and unctuous in the middle. A dessert was not required but a creme brulee, between two, was a reminder of the classics to finish. Silkily textured underneath with the perfect sugar thickness atop.
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The whole point of my Great Food Club piece was to celebrate these institutions of the Nottingham food scene and French Living is just that. I’m pleased to report that quality remains high. I couldn’t fault any cooking at French living but prices felt a little punchy, particularly £28 for my main when you consider what you can get elsewhere for that sort of money in the city. The fixed menu dishes I saw coming out to other tables looked on par with the main menu so I’ll have to return to check in on that option.
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