White wines tend to evoke feelings of refreshment and relaxation. Sure, popular white wine varieties like Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay tend to be zippy and light, which makes them ideal for balancing the saline-kissed sweetness of fresh seafood. But a healthy chunk of white wine’s magic is its vibe. Despite the rich, complex characteristics white wines express in aroma and on the palate, they’re often not perceived as austere or serious as red wines. This can make them appear more fun and approachable, which is why the category is widely considered a fail-safe crowd-pleaser.
But sometimes, a white wine may spell disappointment, especially when the bottle carries some hype. There could be numerous reasons a bottle might be considered overrated: It could be due to the region of origin, a specific variety, or the winemaking technique involved. It won’t necessarily ruin the intended vibe, but it can lessen the experience.
What white wines tend to fall short in building the ideal atmosphere? We asked nine wine professionals to find out. Here’s what they had to say.
“Over-oaked whites — particularly over-oaked Chardonnay — is my pick for most overrated white wine. Heavy use of oak can mask and cover up off-flavors and aromas in wine, but it also masks and covers up fruit character, earthiness, and other natural characteristics of the grape variety. This is why I tend to prefer featuring winemakers who are very measured in their use of new oak as an aging medium.” —Francis Kulaga, general manager and beverage director, Anomaly, San Francisco
“As American palates have matured, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has jumped to the front of the line as a go-to for crisp, dry white after generations of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon, and other notable Sauv Blanc regions had a stronghold in other wine-drinking cultures. But the interesting thing is that the notes people like from New Zealand — lime, lemongrass, grapefruit, and gooseberry— are due to less ripe grapes with higher acid. There are other, better options out there [to enjoy those notes], but those options depend on what the consumer likes. If bright acidity is the factor, I would encourage the experience of a nice bone-dry Riesling. If it’s the phenolics of lime, lemon, and grapefruit, a world-class Grüner Veltliner could entice their palates.” —Brian Lillie, vice president of hospitality operations and distribution, Chateau Chantal Winery, Traverse City, Mich.
“I’m not sure if it’s just an NYC thing — I suspect it’s national — but Sancerre is invariably one of the most requested whites. It’s established, easy to pronounce, and Sauvignon Blanc-based, so no surprise there. While I love the best examples of it, I find there’s an awful lot of really limp and insipid Sancerre in the market that’s priced far higher than alternatives that do the same thing, yet are totally lacking in intensity or power. What a waste of such a potentially expressive grape!” —Gareth Rees, beverage director, Ilili, NYC
“Without a doubt, the most overrated white wine on the planet is almost anything made with Pinot Gris. Whether it’s from Oregon or grand cru Alsace, I’d be hard-pressed to find a single example that’s very compelling at all. There are outliers, of course, but they are so few and far in between that I can’t think of one off hand. Where Gris shines is as a skin-contact or as a red wine. White wine? Not so much.” —Mark Kosmicki, owner, Party Bar, Eugene, Ore.
“If you love summertime patio dining, you may have noticed the astronomical rise in the price of Sancerre. Seafood’s best friend is now often as much of a luxury as the lobster itself. While Sancerre is still great, there are so many affordable options for Sauvignon Blanc that it’s becoming harder to justify for restaurants and guests. Neighboring appellations like Menetou Salon and Touraine offer much better value. Additionally, they are usually available throughout the year. Sancerre has been suffering shortages, which are contributing to the price hikes.” —Austin Farina, beverage director, MML Hospitality Restaurants, Austin, Texas
“Although I love when anyone is promoting wine, ‘low-calorie’ white wine doesn’t make sense in the way that some influencers have been promoting it. Any wine that is both low in sugar and low in alcohol would be naturally low-calorie. And how many calories means it is low-calorie? Drinking wine isn’t just about the buzz; it should be an experience, and nobody should be worrying about calories while enjoying a glass. Low-calorie white wine is sadly an extension of diet culture and has no place in the wine world.” —Michelle Morin, beverage director, Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach, Dana Point, Calif.
“Macabeo, also known as Viura, is a white grape variety that is widely used in various Spanish regions such as La Rioja, Aragón, and Valencia. Macabeo wines can have distinctive flavors ranging from floral and fruity to more complex and nutty profiles as they age. However, they sometimes carry a price tag that doesn’t fully align with the overall quality they deliver. While they offer a pleasant drinking experience, they don’t always achieve the same level of finesse or depth that other more internationally renowned white grape varieties, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, can offer.” —Abraham Valdez, sommelier, Hilton Cancun Mar Caribe All-Inclusive Resort, Cancun, Mexico
“If I had a nickel for everytime I heard ‘Can I have a dry white wine like Sauvignon Blanc?’ or ‘Do you have Sancerre?’ I would have enough money to retire from the service industry and live out my days on a beach somewhere. I am not sure when everyone decided that any other white wine is the villain and Sauvignon Blanc and Sancerre have come to save them. I love that people are finding a wine they love, don’t get me wrong, but the vast world of white wine does not begin and end with Sancerre.” —Ann Sanders, sommelier, Temperance Wine Bar, NYC
“An oaky, buttery Chardonnay from California. Why drink this when there are so many better options out there? If you love a Chardonnay, that’s totally cool, but you should give a Chablis a try and explore its heavy minerality. You won’t be sad!” —Olivier Rassinoux, vice president, restaurant and bar, Patina Restaurant Group, Los Angeles
*Image retrieved from alter_photo via stock.adobe.com
The article We Asked 9 Wine Pros: What’s the Most Overrated White Wine? appeared first on VinePair.
