Before confectioners’ sugar was invented, home bakers had to create creamy frostings through high heat, like the boiled, ethereal seven-minute frosting. From this tradition came ermine frosting, a cloud-like spread that begins on the stovetop with a roux. Milk and flour thicken into a pudding-like mixture, which then chills in the fridge before being whipped with butter and granulated sugar. The end result? A fluffy frosting that looks like whipped cream and feels like luxurious silk. Long before cream cheese frosting came into the picture, this was the frosting of choice for red velvet cake.  

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Ermine Icing

Makes about 3 cups

Ingredients

• 5 tablespoons (40 grams) all-purpose flour
• 1 cup (240 grams) cold whole milk
• 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar

Instructions

• In a small saucepan, cook flour and milk over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened and pudding-like and an instant-read thermometer registers 170℉ (77℃) 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and whisk in vanilla and salt. Pour into a small bowl; cover with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until completely cool, about 1 hour.
• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat butter until creamy and smooth, about 2 minutes. With mixer on medium speed, slowly add sugar, and beat until smooth and fluffy, 6 to 7 minutes. Slowly add cooked flour mixture to butter mixture, and beat until light and fluffy. (It should look like whipped cream.) Use immediately.

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