The glitzy PR launch is over and the mere mortals, like you and I, are now able to walk through the doors and vote with our feet. It seems that has already begun, with a reported 7,000 bookings taken before opening. My first impressions were of surprise. The big front door gave way to a small space that had 3 young women smiling their very hardest at me, adorned with ornate gold blazers. The refurbishment is impressive and at 1215 on a Thursday was already abuzz with people drinking and eating. There is a main space dominated by a bar with a couple of quieter side areas. I’d call decora mix of art deco and safari, with a bit of gold trim. There are an extensive number of menus available. Breakfast, brunch, 2 fixed lunches, a la carte, Sunday lunch, afternoon tea. I think I missed a couple. A friend and I decided to sample their 2 course lunch menu, priced competitively at £20.95.
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Before we dive further in I should also mention the wine. it’s a nice list. It’s an expensive list. Nyetimber NV, regularly available at £32-35, is £102. There is a Pazo do Mar Albarino. I found a bottle at £15.14 that will set you back £70 at The Ivy. You get the idea. Our starters arrived swiftly, I had gone for Salt and Pepper Calamari. It was prettily presented atop an ‘Asian slaw’. A Gochujang glaze was delightfully tangy and the crispiness could not be faulted. Too crispy though. Is that a thing? Well I would have struggled to tell you what I was eating. The slivers of squid were so thin and crispy it could have been anything, I’d have rather have less pieces that were thicker. Wagamama Crispy Chilli Squid beats this.
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I wanted a hearty feed for my main course, so the Cumberland sausage and mash seemed fitting. The bangers were as flavourful and peppery as one would hope. Quite why a ‘truffled red wine sauce’ was necessary I’m not sure as the truffle flavour wasn’t really in harmony with everything else but the gravy generally had a nice depth and consistency. Mash was suitably luxurious but not overly decadent, could easily have been smoother with more butter to some peoples tastes. There might have been more of it for some peoples tastes. I wasted an extra £5.25 on a side of peas and broad beans that was literally just some frozen peas and beans. I’m not sure what I expected though, a lardon amongst it all? I will say the sea bream enjoyed by my friend looked particularly good for lunch menu standards. He gave it a firm thumbs up, though if you were hungry you’d need to order your carbs separately.
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£20.95 is actually pretty solid value for what I had. I walked home past my local, The Castle pub, and their midweek 2 course menu is now £19.95. Service was good as you might expect, diligent and earnest. I can see the appeal of The Ivy. The food is solid, comforting and in a luxurious setting where you feel confident of a certain experience. Parents are in town, how about The Ivy? Need to entertain a client, how about The Ivy? I might go back and spend £20+ on fish and chips but I won’t be rushing. Give me Raymond’s fermented plum and cherry glaze pork chop or Everyday People’s bowl & snack for £16 at lunchtimes. They’re the places with more soul that make me feel good inside.
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