The dictionary definition of “hyperbole” is “exaggerated statements or claims not meant to be taken literally.” When it comes to recipes, when I see superlatives (exaggerated expressions of praise) such as “best in the world,” my immediate reaction is “oh, really—give me a break,” coupled with wincing distaste. Has the author really tasted that many other recipes and do they really want to put down colleagues at the same time as elevating themselves?!
I’ve asked several people and a few suggested that the reason for this is probably that it works to sell more books because of search engines. As for me, I’d rather sell fewer books! (I do not add a “best” hashtag to our recipe postings.) If the recipe has a “never been done before” or a technique contrary to the norm, I research to ensure that is true and if it works.
I also ask myself the criteria I look for to decide if a cake recipe is worth trying.
The first thing is the headnote. Does it describe the flavor and texture? Does it say how it differs from other similar recipes? Does it give credit to its origin? Do I already have a recipe in my repertoire that is similar? Are the instructions detailed enough? Do they give at least one or two ways to test for doneness? Do they list how to store the baked cake and for how long?
Then I look at the ingredients. Are weights included? Also, is the ratio of sugar to flour the same if no cocoa is used, which would require more sugar? Is the flour listed as bleached or unbleached? Is the salt listed as fine sea salt or table salt or type of kosher? Does the chocolate have the percentage of cacao? If the butter is softened, is the temperature range given?
I can bake without flour but not without eggs, and if the recipe doesn’t divide them and list the weight of the yolks, I will do it. And then there’s sugar or a natural sweetener—after all, it’s not a cake if it isn’t sweet. Sugar also contributes tenderness. Because sugar is so important, here is some useful information about it.
In most cakes, the sugar used is either refined fine granulated or brown sugar. Brown sugar can offer subtle to intense overtones of butterscotch, toffee, caramel, wine, molasses, spice, and even bitterness. These qualities derive from both the variety of the sugar source and from the degree and type of refinement. I love muscovado light brown sugar.
There is a lot to understand about the different types of sugars and also how they perform in baking. In April 2000, Food Arts Magazine published my article about sugar. It was such an expansive subject, it took me a year to write, and it went on to win “The Best Food or
Wine Article” at the Adelaide Australia Gourmand annual awards. It’s available for anyone to read at realbakingwithrose.com /sugar.
Note: To create light brown sugar in a pinch, for 1 cup/220 grams light brown sugar, use 1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar plus 1 tablespoon/20 grams light molasses. For dark brown sugar, increase the molasses to 2 tablespoons/40 grams.
Find Rose on Instagram at @realbakingwithrose and at realbakingwithrose.com.
The post Rose Levy Beranbaum: Hyperbole and How to Evaluate a Recipe first appeared on Bake from Scratch.
